The majority of the hike consists of the same trail as to Laughing Falls Campground, so the first 4.2 km is relatively flat and easy. Sideshows along the way include viewing both Angels Staircase Falls and Point Lace Falls 2.3 km into the journey. There is a mild elevation gain of 76 m from here before a fork in the road directs you left to visit Lake Duchesnay. The lake is only a few hundred metres away at best, even though the Parks sign insists it is 400 m. Regardless, the route continues straight past this juncture to Laughing Falls Campground only a few minutes ahead, on the other side of a sturdy steel bridge that crosses the Little Yoho River.

The falls are on the left (west) side of a smooth trail that cuts through the campground. At the far end, you reach another signed intersection guiding you to take the right fork to continue to Twin Falls Campground 2.5 km farther on. The remainder of the route is an enjoyable walk beside Twin Falls Creek with negligible change in altitude.

Shortly after departing Laughing Falls Campground, the path crosses Twin Falls Creek, landing on the eastern bank. The spruce and pine forest is thick, but it occasionally permits partial glimpses of the dual falls. Infrequently, gorgeous hemlocks also populate the Twin Creek Valley. Continue uninterrupted through forest paralleling the creek until you reach the Yoho Glacier junction at the 6.4-km mark. The way is obvious, as the glacier trail branches to the right and the campground sits a short descent down the left fork.

The campground has eight sites, a bear pole and a couple of outhouses. A central cooking area is difficult to locate, but it is there. However, if you are not in the mood for cooking, get back on the trail and climb about 200 m within 1.5 km. If you were not hungry before setting out, you certainly will be when you reach the chalet.

The falls drop 180 m after being split into two cascades by a limestone block. The two falling-water chutes merge just before they land in a narrow chasm. This is an utterly glorious waterfall. The sound, sight and feel of this natural wonder will fill your body with joy. Occasionally, during low glacial runoff seasons, the left passage would become blocked. The recourse was to blast the waterway with dynamite. This was not a permanent solution, however, as I witnessed the single-drop spectacle first-hand in 2003. At first we felt cheated, but soon realized we were being treated to a rare event.

Twin Falls history

A Canadian Pacific Railway crew cut the trail to these falls in 1901 as part of an ongoing drive to develop the Rocky Mountains for tourism. As the popularity of the falls grew, the CPR built the tea house to feed and house guests who had ventured in to see this spectacular site.

The first phase of the teahouse was constructed in 1908 as a single-storey cabin for overnight backcountry touring. In 1915, more effort was directed toward trail construction and the path was greatly augmented. It is this same route that we hike today. The upgrade inspired more visitors and the CPR found itself turning overnight guests away. So eventually, in 1923, the railway leased this idyllic half-acre setting from the National Parks Branch, instituting “Twin Falls Rest,” named, of course, for the extraordinary Twin Falls cascade. Construction of an additional storey to the teahouse began in 1922 and was finished in 1924. From 1925 to 1928, the first and second phases were joined together by a simple, single-storey connection.